Coastal Calm & City Glamour: Puglia and Rome Summer 2025
How We Got there:
During the Jubilee Year and the inauguration of the new Pope, flight deals to Italy were scarce. Fortunately, ITA Airways (formerly Alitalia) offered the most affordable business class option with non-stop service from New York to Rome.
The aircraft featured a traditional 1-2-1 seating configuration, and we always prefer the single seats along the window for added privacy. If you're flying overnight, it's worth noting that even-numbered seats in these single rows tend to offer slightly more seclusion due to their positioning—making them ideal for a more restful journey.
Rome-Puglia: To minimize air travel, we took the train from Rome’s central station to Brindisi. From there, we rented a car—an essential choice for exploring all that Puglia has to offer. Travel time is approximately ~ 5 hours on high speed trains and we highly recommend spending slightly more for premium seats. If you are a larger group with an abundance of baggage, drop your group off at the Brindisi central train station and have one person take a taxi to the airport to pick up your rental care. For those with the American Express Platinum card, do not forget your Avis preferred status for any promotional perks.
Where to splurge: We definitely enjoyed the executive class on the Frecciarossa on the return from Brindisi to Rome. This cabin is a step up from traditional business, has a dedicated in cabin attendant, menu options for dining and significantly more spacious seats. This train line tends to have more reliable Wifi and improved air conditioning. While it is not always available on all legs of your journey, we would recommend keeping an eye out for it for those longer journeys.
Puglia, Part One
Where We Stayed:
There’s truly no better way to indulge in a memorable getaway than by renting a private villa with friends from across the globe. With thoughtful planning and early booking, you can unlock exceptional deals that blend luxury, comfort, and affordability. These villas often come fully equipped with high-end amenities—private pools, expansive terraces, and chef-grade kitchens—making them the perfect setting for an unforgettable escape.
Villa Dora
This year, we discovered our perfect retreat on Airbnb: Villa Dora, located just south of our previous stays, in the picturesque seaside enclave of Torre Vado. Perched above the Ionian coast, the villa features a stunning sea-view pool that quickly became the centerpiece of our days.
Thoughtfully designed for both comfort and style, the property offers expansive outdoor living areas ideal for gathering, dining, or simply taking in the sunset. Inside, the interiors are sleek, modern, and well maintained—creating a serene, high-end atmosphere throughout. There is a wonderful area to sit outside and lounge or dine that is well covered from the sun. There are also two separate elevated terrace spaces that offered beautiful vistas of the surrounding area, extending down to the beautiful Ionian sea.
There are 4 bedrooms and three bathrooms, with 3 of the bedrooms located on the lower level with full bathrooms just outside the bedrooms, and a primary bedroom on the second floor with an ensuite bathroom and shower.
The Villa is conveniently located to explore the surrounding areas such as Leuca and Salve. An added bonus is the five minute drive to some beautiful beach clubs.
Villa Dora
Where We Ate:
Lido Azzurro: Perched at the southernmost tip of Puglia, where the Ionian and Adriatic seas converge, Lido Azzurro in Santa Maria di Leuca offers a refined seaside dining experience. Established in the 1960s as the area's first beach club, it is conveniently located on the main promenade of Santa Maria di Leuca. We would highly recommend sticking to the seafood here, which was where the dining experience shined.
Sacrestia Restaraunt: Located in Santa Maria di Leuca, this hidden gem sits adjacent to the historic basilica that crowns the clifftop—quite literally abutting the church itself.
Sacrestia’s name, meaning "sacristy," is no accident. As you pass through its modest stone archway, you're transported into a space that feels like a reverent extension of the sacred grounds next door. The menu is crafted with simplicity: think just-caught seafood, heirloom vegetables, and olive rich delicious olive oil.
Jordan Trattoria Pizzeria in Morciano di Leuca: Morciano di Leuca is a picturesque town characterized by its narrow streets, whitewashed buildings, and a tranquil atmosphere that invites visitors to slow down and savor the moment. It's the kind of place where time seems to stand still, allowing for genuine connections and memorable experiences. At Jordan Trattoria Pizzeria, the menu celebrates local flavors with a variety of traditional dishes. Patrons rave about the light, flavorful pizza dough and the use of fresh, high-quality ingredients. The restaurant's commitment to excellence is evident in its impressive 4.6 out of 5 rating on Google, based on over 100 reviews .
https://restaurantguru.it/Jordan-Trattoria-Pizzeria-Morciano-di-Leuca
Pro Tip: Skip dessert at Jordan and take a quick five-minute ride—by car or, for the adventurous, on a Vespa—to the nearby town of Salve for a scoop (or two) of gelato at Rione Terra (details below).
Sweet Moments in Salve: Discovering Rione Terra Gelateria: in the heart of Salve's charming Piazza della Repubblica, Rione Terra Caffetteria Gelateria offers a delightful pause for both locals and travelers exploring southern Puglia. Rione Terra is renowned for its artisanal gelato, with flavors like the traditional "spumone" receiving high praise from visitors. Beyond gelato, the café serves excellent coffee and freshly baked cornetti, making it a perfect stop for breakfast, an afternoon pick-me-up, or a leisurely evening dessert.
https://restaurantguru.it/Rione-Terra-Caffetteria-Gelateria-Salve
Ristorante La Vinaigrette: Located on Gallipoli's picturesque Riviera Armando Diaz, Ristorante La Vinaigrette offers a wonderful dining experience that seamlessly blends the rich flavors of Puglia's seafood cuisine with breathtaking views of the Ionian Sea. La Vinaigrette is renowned for its commitment to freshness and quality, sourcing the finest local seafood to craft dishes that honor Salento's culinary traditions. The menu features a variety of raw and cooked specialties that were all delicious.
Pro Tip: Terrace seatings will require reservations with two seating options 7:30 and 8:30. Sunset will not be visible from the terrace but a stunning view of the Ionian sea as well as the historic castle will. It is quite warm in Gallipoli and despite its seaside location the air is stagnant so book a later table and bring one of your portable fans.
Terrace Seating at Ristorante La Vinaigrette
Charcoal and Wine: Villa Life at its Finest: There’s something deeply restorative about sharing slow, intentional moments with friends—especially when you’re all gathered under one roof at a sun-drenched villa. Cooking became a group ritual—chopping, sipping wine, sneaking bites while music played softly in the background. And when evening fell, we set a long table outside, decorated with hand picked flowers from the garden and wine from the local vineyard we dined under the canopy of stars.
Pro Tip: When booking your villa, ensure that the host provides access to a BBQ, and remember to add charcoal to your shopping list.
Where we explored:
Santa Maria di Leuca: Known as Finibus Terrae—“the end of the land”—this coastal gem is where the Ionian and Adriatic seas meet in a shimmer of turquoise light.
Leuca charms with its 19th-century villas, cascading cliffs, and a basilica that watches over the sea like a timeless sentinel. Days here are for boat rides through sea grottoes, strolls along the palm-lined promenade, and aperitivo with a view. Get there while it still remains understated and unspoiled.
Gallipoli: perched on the Ionian coast of southern Italy, Gallipoli—meaning “beautiful city” in Greek—offers a captivating blend of history, culture, and seaside allure. Gallipoli is uniquely divided into two parts: the modern mainland and the historic old town, known as the Centro Storico. The old town is situated on a limestone island, connected to the mainland by a 16th-century bridge. Within its ancient walls, visitors can wander through narrow alleys lined with whitewashed buildings, baroque churches, and hidden courtyards, all echoing centuries of maritime history. As a historic fishing town, Gallipoli offers a rich culinary scene. Visitors can savor fresh seafood at local markets and restaurants. Traditional dishes include orecchiette pasta, frisella (a twice-baked bread), and the sweet pasticciotto pastry.
Beach Clubs:
Flota Beach Club: Conveniently located about about a 6 minute drive from our Villa, the Flota Beach Club, offers a full service experience including sun beds, umbrellas, on site dining and access to a beautiful section of the beach along the Ionian sea. The onsite amenities also have showers (token required) and free access to restrooms.
Pro Tip: Beach clubs in this area are starting to get extremely busy as tourists discover the Puglia region and the infiltration begins. We strongly encourage you to reserve your spots in advance, especially if you want that coveted front row set of sun beds.
Baia degli Dei Beach Club in Lido Marini: Nestled along the Ionian coast in the heart of Salento, Baia degli Dei Beach Club in Lido Marini offers a perfect blend of relaxation and local charm. This elegant beach establishment is renowned for its pristine sandy shores and crystal-clear waters, making it an ideal destination for both families and couples seeking a tranquil seaside escape. You can enjoy a range of amenities designed for comfort and leisure. The beach club provides sun beds and umbrellas for a relaxing day by the sea, as well as private cabins and hot showers for convenience. A unique aspect of this club is a walled off “sea pool” that allows for a safe and serene space to float peacefully in the ionian sea. There is an onsite restaurant, though the food was certainly better at Flota. The only star dish of those we ordered was the traditional orecchiette with meatballs. Since this venue is closer to the town, consider venturing off site to explore better dining options. Despite the dining options we would certainly return to this beach club.
Pro Tip: Online reservations are needed in advance of your visit, and their online booking platform allows you to book your bed location with three distinct booking options ranging from higher priced cabanas, regular sun beds and sun beds located in a grassy area. There is a small playground up front for children.
Torre dell'Orso: Puglia’s Coastal Gem
Nestled along the Adriatic coastline of Salento, Torre dell'Orso is a captivating seaside town in Puglia, Italy. Renowned for its pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, and rich cultural heritage, it offers a perfect blend of relaxation and exploration.
The main beach stretches approximately 800 meters, featuring fine white sand bordered by majestic cliffs and a lush pine forest. The beach has been awarded the Blue Flag for its cleanliness and environmental standards . The calm, turquoise waters are ideal for swimming, and the surrounding cliffs provide opportunities for adventurous cliff diving. You will find an abundance of beach clubs providing sun beds, umbrellas and restaurant services. We would highly recommend booking in advance.
One of the most photographed features is the “Le Due Sorelle” (The Two Sisters), two towering sea stacks that, according to local legend, represent two sisters transformed into rocks by the gods. These formations add a mystical charm to the already picturesque landscape.
What We Missed: Lido Venere
One of our all-time favorite beach clubs from previous trips to Puglia is the effortlessly chic Lido Venere in Torre San Giovanni. With its silky white sand, turquoise water, and laid-back luxury vibe, it's the kind of place you dream about all winter—and rush back to as soon as summer hits.
Unfortunately, it seems the secret is officially out. During our recent visit, every single sun bed was booked for the entire week. It was a gentle reminder that paradise waits for no one—especially during high season in Salento.
Word to the wise: If Lido Venere is on your list (and trust us, it should be), make sure to book well in advance through their official reservations page located below.
Puglia, Part Two
Where We Stayed:
Craving a change of pace—and a touch of indulgence—we transitioned from our villa lifestyle to the full-service elegance of Sangiorgio Resort for the second half of our Puglian adventure. Nestled in the charming town of Cutrofiano, in the province of Lecce, this exquisite property offered a distinct blend of history, tranquility, and sophistication.
Once an ancient monastery, the resort has been thoughtfully transformed into a refined retreat, seamlessly marrying its historic architecture with contemporary luxury. Its central location made it an ideal base for exploring the cultural richness and natural beauty of southern Puglia, all while enjoying the comforts of attentive service, serene grounds, and an atmosphere steeped in timeless charm.
While the resort does advertise as a five star resort, we noted several general areas for improvement, mostly in the area of service where the experience was more lackluster.
Where We Ate:
Il Fienile Restaraunt: Just outside the town center of Galatina, Puglia, Il Fienile offers a dining experience that seamlessly blends historical charm with contemporary elegance. Housed in a beautifully restored barn, the restaurant showcases exposed stone walls and vaulted ceilings, creating an ambiance that is both rustic and refined.
The outdoor courtyard is a highlight, providing a serene setting for al fresco dining. Surrounded by lush greenery and softly lit in the evenings, it's an idyllic spot to savor the flavors of Apulian cuisine under the stars.
Chef Paolo Adamo's menu is a testament to the region's rich culinary heritage, presented with modern flair. The combination of high-quality ingredients and innovative presentation has earned Il Fienile accolades from both locals and visitors alike.
With its harmonious blend of stunning architecture, enchanting outdoor dining, and exquisite cuisine, Il Fienile stands out as a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts exploring Puglia.
Courtyard Dining at Its Best at Il Fienile
A Hidden Gem in Puglia: Ristorante del Marchesale: Tucked into one of the most perfect towns in all of Puglia—elegant, sun-drenched, and brimming with quiet charm—Ristorante del Marchesale is a true Southern Italian treasure. From the moment you arrive, you're met with a scene straight out of a postcard: winding stone streets, soft golden light, and the gentle hum of life in a place untouched by haste.
The restaurant itself is a masterclass in understated luxury. Vaulted ceilings, warm earth tones, and thoughtfully curated décor strike the perfect balance between rustic and refined. Whether you dine on the rooftop patio or inside the historic walls, every corner feels intimate and timeless.
What truly elevates the experience is the management and staff—gracious, attentive, and deeply passionate about hospitality.
And the food? Divine. Each dish is a celebration of local ingredients—vibrant tomatoes, freshly caught seafood, handmade pasta—executed with creativity and soul. It's the kind of meal that lingers in your memory.
Terrazza San Pietro: A Charming Spot in Otranto’s Historic Heart
Tucked within the ancient walls of Otranto, Terrazza San Pietro offers a delightful setting for a leisurely meal. Located in a quaint square near the Byzantine Chiesa di San Pietro, the restaurant boasts a terrace that provides a picturesque view of the church's tower, enhancing the dining experience with a touch of historical charm.
The ambiance is undeniably appealing, making it an ideal spot for those looking to soak in the local atmosphere. While the food is solid, it may not stand out among the culinary offerings in the region. Dishes are competently prepared, but they might not leave a lasting impression on seasoned food enthusiasts.
https://www.thefork.it/ristorante/terrazza-san-pietro-r475791
Antica Masseria Scagnito: located in the serene countryside of Corigliano d’Otranto, Antica Masseria Scagnito is a beautifully restored 18th-century farmhouse that seamlessly blends rustic charm with modern luxury. Originally serving as a control tower for the Padulana valley, this historic masseria has been transformed into an elegant retreat, offering guests a tranquil escape amidst olive groves and rolling fields.
Culinary enthusiasts will be delighted by the on-site restaurant, which has garnered acclaim for its exquisite offerings. The menu features dishes crafted from fresh, locally sourced ingredients, including produce from the masseria's own vegetable garden.
Antica Masseria Scagnito has also been recognized for its exceptional hospitality and culinary excellence, earning the title of best masseria in Puglia on the popular Italian TV show "4 Ristoranti."
Crianza: Located on Via Principi di Savoia in the heart of Lecce, Crianza offers a delightful respite for travelers seeking a break from traditional Italian fare. Crianza's charming outdoor seating provides the perfect vantage point for people-watching, allowing guests to immerse themselves in the vibrant local scene.
A standout on the menu is the porchetta sandwich, a delectable creation featuring tender, herb-infused roast pork nestled in a crusty baguette.
Where We Explored:
Galatina: Located in the heart of Puglia's Salento region, is a hidden gem that enchants visitors with its rich history, stunning architecture, and vibrant cultural traditions.
The town's historic center is a labyrinth of narrow streets lined with elegant Baroque palazzi, each adorned with intricate stone carvings and ornate balconies. These structures, built from the 16th century onwards by affluent merchants and the church, showcase the opulence of the Baroque era. At the heart of Galatina stands the Basilica di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria, a 14th-century masterpiece commissioned by Raimondello Orsini del Balzo. Catching a glimpse of the golden sunset casts its beautiful wash of color on to the church is really breathtaking.
Galatina's cultural vibrancy is perhaps best experienced during its annual festivals. In late June, the town celebrates the Feast of Saints Peter and Paul its patron saints, with religious processions, music, and traditional dances. We were lucky enough to arrive on the day of this festival and is truly one not to miss. This festival also commemorates the ritual of "tarantism," a historic practice involving music and dance believed to cure the bite of the mythical tarantula spider.
We did return to Galatina on the last night of our trip while planning to dine at a restaurant just outside the town. We were pleasantly surprised to see that the town was quite active into the later hours of the night on Thursday with plenty of bars, restaurants operating at full capacity, and mostly with locals. We would certainly have spent another night roaming around in this town if we could.
Melpigmano: In the heart of Salento lies Melpignano, a small Puglian town that seems to exist outside the bounds of time. Wander its quiet streets and you'll quickly lose track of hours—not out of disorientation, but because here, time simply doesn’t matter.
The buildings, bathed in warm, golden sunlight, The town reminds you that there is no need to rush, no noise to distract you—only the occasional bicycle bell or the rhythmic sound of footsteps on ancient stone.
While most will skip this town, we suggest a quick visit just before sunset. Take a stroll and grab a drink in the town center and stay for dinner at Ristorante Del Marchesale.
Otranto: Where Puglia Meets the Aegean
Nestled on the Adriatic coast, Otranto may be one of Italy’s best-kept secrets—a town where the elegance of Puglia blends effortlessly with the charm of the Aegean. With its whitewashed alleys, sea-salted breeze, and cobblestone streets winding through historic quarters, Otranto feels at once Italian and strikingly Greek.
At the heart of it all stands the Otranto Cathedral, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture famous for its stunning 12th-century mosaic floor. Wander inside and you’ll find a blend of myth, faith, and artistry that rivals any cathedral in Europe. Just outside, the old town invites you to linger over aperitivo as the Mediterranean sun paints the stone walls gold.
Whether you’re exploring the Aragonese Castle, strolling along the scenic waterfront, or savoring fresh seafood with a view of the turquoise sea, Otranto offers a rare combination of history, beauty, and tranquility. It’s Italy, yes—but with a sun-drenched whisper of Greece.
Lecce: The Baroque Jewel of Southern Italy: Lecce is one of Puglia’s most enchanting destinations—often dubbed “The Florence of the South.” This opulent city seduces travelers with its golden sandstone architecture, rich cultural tapestry, and an effortlessly elegant way of life that makes it a must-stop on any luxury Italian itinerary.
The historic center is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, with intricately carved facades, ornate churches, and winding alleyways bathed in honeyed light. The Basilica di Santa Croce is a showstopper—its wildly elaborate façade a testament to the skill and flair of local artisans.
Lecce isn’t just about its past. The city pulses with contemporary flair. Boutique hotels tucked into palazzi offer rooftop views and artisanal breakfasts. Hidden courtyards become candlelit restaurants by night.
A Pause in the Eternal City of Rome
Where We Stayed:
Mercure Roma Centro Colosseo: With just a couple of days before heading south to Puglia, the Mercure proved to be a solid pitstop—chosen primarily for its central location and, most importantly, its pool, an absolute must during Rome’s sweltering summer months. We would say that this hotel lacked in some areas including smaller room sizes, a need to refresh the public shared spaces and while the pool was great there is absolutely nowhere to take cover from the shade making it really difficult to enjoy during those prime hours where being out and about is just not feasible due to the heat. For a very minimal cost, the breakfast was better than expected with a solid buffet. If you are traveling out of Rome early, please note that they have a strict start time of 7 am for breakfast.
I don’t know that we would stay here again.
View from the rooftop pool area
Waldorf Astoria, Rome:
We thoroughly enjoyed our stay here during our last visit to Rome. Though located just outside the city center, this property offers a luxurious retreat from the bustle of Rome’s busy streets. With beautifully appointed rooms, exceptional service, and the realistic chance of a few celebrity sightings, it’s a haven worth returning to.
Where We Ate:
Lagana: Tucked away in a storybook alleyway in the heart of Trastevere, Lagana offers a slice of Roman magic that feels both intimate and indulgent. This charming gem is the kind of place you stumble upon only if you know where to look—or if a savvy local lets you in on the secret. Luckily this venue also belongs to our sister-in-laws family so dining here has become a tradition.
Tables spill out onto the narrow cobblestone passage, framed by ivy-covered stone walls and the soft amber glow of vintage lanterns. Dining al fresco here feels like being transported into a classic Italian film—each clink of glass and soft laugh echoing off the walls like part of a well-rehearsed symphony.
But it’s not just the ambiance that enchants. The service at Lagana is exceptional—gracious, attentive, and wonderfully unhurried. Whether you’re sipping a bold red or savoring handmade pasta, the staff ensures every moment feels personal and relaxed, with the kind of warmth that only adds to the culinary experience.
For those seeking a luxurious yet quietly authentic Roman evening, Lagana is the perfect pause. It’s not just a meal—it’s a memory waiting to be made.
Outdoor dining, Lagana
Sunset Aperitivo on Cicconi’s Terrace – Soho House Rome: Perched atop Soho House Rome, nestled in the creative heart of San Lorenzo, Cicconi’s Terrazza offers an aperitivo experience that's as elevated as its 10th-floor vantage point. As the sun dips below terracotta rooftops and church spires, guests lounge among olive trees and citrus-shaded nooks, sipping on bespoke cocktails paired with some great people watching. Remember..photos aren’t allowed.
Mazzo: located in the spirited, up-and-coming neighborhood of Centocelle, Mazzo is not just a place to eat—it’s a culinary destination for those who crave Roman authenticity with contemporary finesse. Far from the tourist-thronged streets of central Rome, Mazzo offers an intimate experience that blends rustic tradition with creative flair.With just a few tables and a cozy, minimalist interior, dinner at Mazzo feels like being invited to a secret supper club. The ambiance is intentionally pared back—soft lighting, wood accents, and a hum of conversation—allowing the food to take center stage.
The menu, a testament to neo-trattoria philosophy, changes often, guided by local markets and chef intuition. Expect refined reinterpretations of Roman staples.
Antica Pesa Rome: A Glamorous Return to the Original
After many memorable evenings at Antica Pesa’s Brooklyn outpost during our years living in Brooklyn, visiting the original Rome location is always a must for us. Nestled in the heart of Trastevere, Antica Pesa combines timeless Roman charm with cosmopolitan sophistication.
The highlight? The stunning outdoor garden—an intimate, ivy-draped courtyard that feels worlds away from the city's bustle. Dining al fresco here under the Roman sky is a truly special experience, complete with twinkling lights and attentive service.
The food, as expected, is exceptional: refined yet grounded in tradition. From perfectly al dente pastas to beautifully plated mains, every dish felt thoughtfully crafted. It’s easy to see why this spot continues to attract both discerning locals and international jetsetters.
And yes, if you're into a little star-spotting with your tiramisu, keep your eyes open—this is a favorite haunt for visiting celebrities and film industry insiders.
For those who know and love the Brooklyn location, a visit to Antica Pesa in Rome is a stylish, delicious homecoming—served with a generous side of la dolce vita.
Marco Martini: A Michelin-Starred Oasis in the Heart of Rome
Tucked away in the elegant San Saba district, Marco Martini Restaurant offers an elevated dining experience that blends Roman tradition with contemporary sophistication. Housed in a charming 1940s villa with a Michelin star to its name, this refined gem is perfect for the discerning traveler seeking a taste of culinary artistry in the Eternal City.
The atmosphere strikes the perfect balance between luxury and intimacy. The glass-enclosed dining room feels like a modern greenhouse—airy, luminous, and surrounded by lush greenery—while the outdoor terrace offers a tranquil escape from the city’s buzz.
Chef Marco Martini’s tasting menus are thoughtful, inventive, and deeply rooted in Italian flavors. Dishes showcase seasonal ingredients with bold creativity, and the wine pairings are as meticulously curated as the plating itself. Expect surprises that both challenge and delight the palate—without losing the soul of Roman cuisine.
Service is polished but warm, making the experience feel indulgent yet personal. Whether you're celebrating a special occasion or simply indulging in Rome’s high-end culinary scene, Marco Martini promises an unforgettable evening—where every detail is quietly, perfectly orchestrated.
