Eric Barna Eric Barna

Verbier-Via Milan

It all begins with an idea.

How We Got There (NYC—> Milan)

While flying into Geneva is often the most straightforward option for reaching Verbier, travelers may find it advantageous to consider Milan’s Malpensa airport, especially if they face limited direct flight choices into Geneva. The added benefit of some shopping and amazing dining options that Milan has to offer doesn’t hurt. We opted to fly Delta which occasionally offers the Delta One Suite product on its JFK-MXP route. However, in this instance, we secured a seat on the retrofitted 767-400, which provides a comfortable alternative.

Delta One Lounge (JFK): A First-Class Travel Experience

Flying out of JFK with the new end-to-end Delta One experience was nothing short of exceptional. For a smooth start, make sure you're dropped off at the Delta One designated departure area. You'll find a secure, private entrance just to the right, where a calm and well-organized check-in process awaits.

Before heading through security, grab a refreshing drink and some snacks from the friendly greeter near the check-in counters. The dedicated Delta One security checkpoint is efficient and hassle-free, getting you airside in no time.

Just beyond security, you'll discover the brand-new Delta One Lounge—a haven for travelers. If you have time, don’t miss the fine dining options, offering restaurant-quality meals that elevate the airport experience. In a rush? The lounge’s extensive grab-and-go selections, including a decadent dessert bar, ensure you won’t board hungry.

For those needing to catch up on work, secluded workstations offer a quiet, comfortable space. Plus, thoughtful amenities like a shoe-shine station and luxurious shower suites add an extra touch of comfort.

Overall, this seamless Delta One experience transformed the usual stress of travel into a true pleasure.

Pro Tip:

On retrofitted business cabin the single aisle (D or A) are better options if you aren’t tied to your partner. Be sure to choose a night flight (the later the better) and in the single aisle even seats are inset allowing for slightly more Privacy.

Train Journey to Verbier

The train journey from Milan Central Station to Le Chable is approximately 4 hours and does require some transfers so pack lightly. An outline of the journey can be found below:

1. Milan Centrale → Brig (Switzerland)

  • Train Type: EuroCity (EC) or regional train

  • Duration: ~1 hour 45 minutes

  • Route:

    • Depart Milan Centrale

    • Cross into Switzerland via the Simplon Tunnel

    • Arrive at Brig

Scenic Highlights: Stunning views of the Alps as you cross the Italian-Swiss border

2. Brig → Martigny

  • Train Type: RegioExpress (RE)

  • Duration: ~45 minutes

  • Route:

    • Depart Brig

    • Travel through the Rhône Valley

    • Arrive at Martigny

Scenic Highlights: Vineyards, Alpine peaks, and the Rhône River

3. Martigny → Le Châble

  • Train Type: St. Bernard Express (regional train)

  • Duration: ~25 minutes

  • Route:

    • Depart Martigny

    • Arrive at Le Châble (base station for Verbier)

Scenic Highlights: Mountain landscapes and charming Swiss villages

4. Le Châble → Verbier

  • Transport Type: Gondola or Bus

  • Duration: ~10-15 minutes

  • Route:

    • Option 1: Gondola up to Verbier **keep in mind the gondolas are small and there is an occasional transport cage but the logistics of getting many bags up if you are one or two individuals can be quite challenging.

    • Option 2: Bus to Verbier if traveling with luggage

Scenic Highlights: Spectacular aerial views of the valley as you ascend

Where We Stayed

Hôtel Le Vanessa: Located 50 meters away from the Verbier town square and in close proximity to the ski lifts of Medran, this chalet-style hotel was built in the 1970s and has 53 suites. Hôtel Le Vanessa is where effortless Swiss living meets the laid-back cool of a seasoned skier, exuding a modern, effortlessly stylish chalet vibe. The property has recently been fully refurbished and includes a wellness center with a hot tub and dry steam sauna. The Brasserie Le V is their on-site restaurant, though we did not get a chance to dine here for dinner. Be sure to ask for a room with a balcony. Rooms are on the smaller size but have everything you need.

https://www.hotelvanessa.ch/

Hôtel Le Vanessa

The Verbier Ski Experience

Located in the heart of the Swiss Alps, Verbier is easily within the top 10 ski destinations in the world. Known for its breathtaking panoramas, extensive terrain, and legendary off-piste opportunities, Verbier is a paradise for skiers and snowboarders of all levels. Whether you’re looking for adrenaline pumping trails or those soft windy trails with stunning vistas, you will not be disappointed. 

Ski Terrain & Trails

Verbier is part of the 4 Vallées ski area, Switzerland’s largest interconnected ski domain. Here’s a breakdown of what to expect:

   •   Total Terrain: 410 km (255 miles) of pistes

   •   Number of Trails: Over 90 marked runs

   •   Highest Elevation: 3,330m (10,925 ft) at Mont Fort

   •   Vertical Drop: 2,500m (8,202 ft)

The well-groomed pistes and extensive backcountry opportunities make Verbier a dream for both seasoned skiers and those looking to challenge themselves.

Slope Intensity & Difficulty

Verbier is known for its diverse slopes, catering to all skill levels:

   •   Beginner (Blue runs - 43%) – While Verbier is more renowned for its expert terrain, beginners can find gentler slopes at Les Esserts and Savoleyres, perfect for learning the ropes.

   •   Intermediate (Red runs - 29%) – Enjoy long, sweeping descents with stunning views, such as the runs down from Attelas or La Chaux.

   •   Advanced/Expert (Black runs - 28%) – For thrill-seekers, Verbier offers some of the most challenging black runs and legendary off-piste terrain in the Alps. The Tortin and Gentianes mogul fields are notorious for their difficulty, while the Mont Fort glacier provides high-altitude, steep, and technical descents.

On-Piste Dining

We highly recommend advanced reservations for all of the dining venues in Verbier.

Le Rouge: Conveniently accessible on ski this venue seamlessly blends après-ski vibes with refined alpine dining. This stylish spot offers a cozy yet modern atmosphere, perfect for unwinding after a day on the pistes. The large terrace, with panoramic views of the snow-capped mountains, is an absolute highlight—ideal for soaking up the sun with a glass of local wine or a signature cocktail in hand.

Restaurant & Après-Ski at the heart of the Swiss Alps in Verbier | Le Rouge - Verbier

Le Carrefour: No visit to this alpine haven is complete without an outdoor dining experience at Le Carrefour, a beloved mountain restaurant that perfectly blends local charm with breathtaking views. Situated at the junction of the slopes leading down from Savoleyres and Les Esserts, Le Carrefour is easily accessible for skiers and non-skiers alike.Le Carrefour’s menu is a celebration of traditional Swiss dishes with a modern flair. Diners can indulge in fondue, raclette, and rosti, all made with locally sourced ingredients. You can also opt for one of their delicious and fresh poke bowls. Be sure to make a reservation as this venue will fill up quickly.

Le Carrefour Verbier | restaurant vebier

Le Mouton Noir: Perched at 2,200 meters at the top of the Medran lift, this high-altitude hotspot delivers the standard mountain top food options, but on a clear days, offers a stunning view. Make your reservation and cross your finger for some blue skies and sunshine. Unfortunately we had some overcast skies on the day of our reservation.

Terrace Dining at Mouton Noir

https://www.kvhotels.com/en/altitude-restaurant-verbier-le-mouton-noir/

Cute Pitstops: If you need a break or something quick, conveniently located just off the slopes, Teepee Bar is the perfect mid-ski pit stop or sunset hangout. With its rustic charm and panoramic views, this cozy spot serves up mulled wine and cold beers with a laid-back, friendly vibe—ideal for warming up after a few runs. For a more intimate mountain dining experience, La Tétine offers a cozy alpine atmosphere with delicious Swiss fare. Whether you’re indulging in classic cheese fondue or sipping a glass of local wine, this hidden gem delivers authentic flavors with stunning vistas.

Off-Piste Dining

Taratata: Under the creative direction of Chef Aline Ménétrey, the restaurant presents a menu inspired by diverse cuisines, including Japanese, Mexican, Italian, North African, and French flavors. Dishes are designed for sharing, encouraging a communal dining experience that delights the palate. The ambiance combines eclectic design elements, creating a chic yet relaxed atmosphere. As dinner winds down, you may find yourself in the throws of a post supper club dance party scene, so be prepared.

https://www.taratata-verbier.ch/home

Chez Dany: Perched at 1,722 meters in the quaint hamlet of Clambin, Chez Dany offers an unforgettable alpine dining experience that begins with a scenic snowcat ascent. As you journey up the mountain, the crisp air and starlit skies set the stage for the evening ahead.

Upon arrival, the restaurant’s warm, intimate cottage ambiance envelops you, with traditional Swiss décor and a crackling fireplace creating a cozy retreat from the cold. The attentive staff welcomes guests with genuine hospitality, making you feel right at home. The culinary offerings at Chez Dany are a delightful blend of local specialties and contemporary dishes. Highlights include the classic fondue and raclette. 

Insider Tip: be sure to book the Snowcat ride round trip and let the Chez Dany team know that you will need to descend with the snowcat, especially if you have a later reservation. If you miss the snowcat, we are told that the offered sled ride down can be a bit grueling and we don’t recommend it. 

Chez Dany - Mountain Restaurant

The Chez Dany Experience

Shed Goomah: This chic eatery, located within the Shed hotel, offers a fusion of American favorites and Italian cuisine. The menu features Neapolitan-style pizzas crafted with stone-milled flour imported from Alba, Italy, and an array of cicchetti—small, shareable plates perfect for a convivial dining experience. I’m always a fan of the classic Margherita which did not disappoint. 

Insider Tip: when making a reservation for this venue be sure you are calling the right ”shed” as there is also a shed burger, which we did not have a chance to try. 

Shed. HOTEL VERBIER

La Marlenaz: While this venue was on our list of planned dinner experiences, unfortunately a fire at the venue shortly before the time of this post prohibited us from dining here. 

Restaurant Verbier | Cuisine Alpine Raffinée | La Marlenaz

Le Caveau: While this venue is one rooted in history, it was a disappointment from beginning to end. Their refusal to allow the Amex concierge to secure the reservation, poor service and overall mediocre food makes this a definite skip on our list.

La Table d’Adrien: offers an wonderful dining experience that seamlessly blends Italian culinary artistry with the rustic charm of the Swiss Alps. As the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Verbier, it has earned acclaim for its inventive cuisine and impeccable service. We opted for the four course option and it was more than enough food.

Under the guidance of Chef Mirto Marchesi, the menu showcases a harmonious fusion of French, Swiss, and Italian flavors. 

The ambiance at La Table d’Adrien is both elegant and inviting, featuring a cozy and intimate interior adorned with traditional alpine décor.

Insider Tip: Try to get there early to grab a table in the hotels ultra cozy lounge area with a wood burning fireplace that sets the tone. 

La Table d'Adrien - Chalet d'Adrien

Intenso: On one of our free nights, we wandered in to Intenso, which came recommended by a few locals. Step inside Intenso, and you’re instantly enveloped in an atmosphere that is both sophisticated and inviting—think warm lighting, plush interiors. The Italian menu offered solid options and were a welcome break from more traditional meals.

Cocktail Hour in Verbier: Lounging Before Dinner at the W Hotel and The Rabbit Hutch

The W Hotel Living Room: Chic, Elevated, and Social

If you’re in the mood for a cocktail experience that blends modern luxury with an alpine vibe, The Living Room at the W Verbier is the perfect spot. The space is a mix of warm wood, stylish furniture and has a cosmopolitan vibe. By early evening, the atmosphere strikes a perfect balance between laid-back and lively. 

For a completely different but equally enticing pre-dinner experience, head to The Rabbit Hutch, an intimate, tucked-away bar that exudes warmth and character. Located near the Medran lift station, this charming hideaway feels like a secret après-ski cabin, complete with wooden interiors, a scent of incense in the air, flickering candlelight, and an inviting mix of locals and visitors who appreciate good drinks and great company. We didn’t even look at the cocktail list, just tell the bartender what you like and he will make the magic happen. 

Blink and You Will Miss It: A Hot Minute in Milan

Where We Stayed

Positioning ourselves close enough to the central train station was key given our excessive luggage burden and reliance on the train for our travel to and from Verbier.

Excelsior Hotel Gallia: Located in the heart of the city, just steps from the iconic Milano Centrale railway station, this five-star hotel effortlessly combines historic grandeur with modern luxury. While we only stayed one night, there is a lovely pool with spa amenities and a nice sized fitness center. Look for deals by booking direct on American Express which gets you your 100 dollar on site spending credit, breakfast included and late checkout (until 3pm), perfect for those mid to early afternoon train departures. When booking a room ,try to ask for a room facing the central station. The rooms leaned more modern in style, they were quiet and clean. The breakfast was well curated with a wide selection of warm and cold options.

5 Star Luxury Hotel in Milan | Excelsior Hotel Gallia, a Luxury Collection Hotel

Hotel Excelsior Gallia-Milano

Westin Palace: Located in the prestigious Porta Nuova district, this five-star retreat is an ideal choice for travelers seeking sophistication with a touch of classic Italian grandeur. The rooms and suites are outfitted with modern luxuries, from Heavenly Beds® to marble bathrooms and cityscape views. Located an easy 10 minute walk or 5 minute taxi ride to the central train station, this is a great option if you will be positioning yourself for trips out of town via Milan’s central train station. 

The Westin Palace, Milan - 5-Star Hotel in the Porta Nuova District

Everywhere we Ate

Ristorante Veramente: If you’re looking for a spot in Milan that effortlessly blends chic vibes with mouthwatering cuisine, Veramente should be at the top of your list. From the moment you step inside, Veramente sets the tone with its sleek, contemporary decor—think minimalist lines, ambient lighting, and just the right touch of urban cool. It’s the kind of place where the atmosphere buzzes with energy, perfect for a night out with friends or a cozy date. Our favorites included some amazing starters: beef tartare, fried gnocco, and Milanese arancina filled with ossobuco and gremolata. For the mains, the classic cotoletta alla Milanese and freshly made pici were absolutely delicious. For dessert, try the chocolate salami with toasted brioche and whipped cream.

Veramente Ristorante | Abitudini italiane

La Gioia Milano: While we only had the opportunity to dine here for lunch, this venue came highly recommended as a favorite of one of our well travelled friends. The interior is sleek and contemporary, with warm lighting and stylish décor that create an inviting yet upscale vibe. But it’s the food that truly steals the show. From expertly crafted pasta dishes to perfectly cooked meats and fresh seafood, every plate at La Gioia is a celebration of flavor and presentation. The wine list is equally impressive, featuring a curated selection of Italian and international labels that perfectly complement the menu.

https://www.lagioiasanmarco.com/

Osteria del Binari: in a charming 19th-century building near Porta Genova, Osteria del Binari offers a refined yet authentic taste of Milanese cuisine. A true hidden gem, this elegant osteria seamlessly blends old-world charm with modern sophistication, making it a must-visit for luxury travelers seeking an intimate, high-end dining experience.

Trattoria dalla cucina tipica milanese in zona Navigli - Osteria del Binari

Osteria Gloria: In a city where fashion and food are equally revered, Osteria Gloria stands out as the perfect blend of both. Nestled in Milan’s trendy Porta Romana district, this effortlessly stylish eatery is a magnet for the city’s fashionable crowd, creative minds, and discerning food lovers. If you’re looking for an elegant yet unpretentious spot where great food meets impeccable vibes, Osteria Gloria delivers in spades.

Whether you’re perched at the chic marble bar, sipping on an aperitivo, or nestled at a candle-lit table by the window, Osteria Gloria is prime territory for people-watching. Expect to see a mix of well-heeled locals, stylish expats, and the occasional celebrity slipping in for a late-night dinner.

Insider Tip: Book a late dinner to soak in the full atmosphere—when the lights dim, the music hums, and Milan’s stylish set lingers over amaro and conversation.

Gloria Osteria Milano · Ristorante italiano

Langosteria Cafe:For those who appreciate understated elegance, impeccable seafood, and a chic Milanese ambiance, Langosteria Café is the ultimate lunchtime indulgence. This has become a must visit lunch spot for us over the last couple of years. The perfect break from all of the shopping at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, this place never disappoints. Our hands down favorite dish is the Paccheri with Sea Bass.


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