A Last Minute Croatian Detour Between Budapest and Stockholm
Getting There
The outbound leg goes JFK to Budapest via Amsterdam on an evening departure, timed to sleep through the transatlantic stretch and land with the whole day still in front of us. Business class both ways made the red-eye painless.
Insider Tip: When flying the royal blue across the Atlantic, check your cabin configuration before you book. You want the upgraded World Business Class seats, the 1:2:1 suite-style layout with a sliding privacy door, not the older business cabin. Do note that the sliding door is not always present despite the updated configuration, though the curved seat back did offer enough privacy for sleep on the red-eye leg.
Insider Tip: The Dreamliner has general and not individual climate control options, the ride can get warm. So bring your portable fan, plug it in and voila, you have a nice little breeze to keep you comfortable on the red-eye leg.
From Budapest, the logistics to Split are complex with no great option and exorbitant rental car fees for cross-country one-way trips. We opted for a local driver option arranged by our hotel. Split to Hvar was a simple ferry ride, and we then returned to Split for our SAS flight directly to Stockholm. The final leg was on a more familiar Delta One product direct to JFK from Stockholm.
Budapest
Where We Stayed
Four nights at what used to be the Ritz-Carlton Budapest. Marriott lost the building in January 2025, when owner Al Habtoor Group ended the management contract and relaunched the property as Al Habtoor Palace, the global debut of a new ultra-luxury brand. The building itself hasn't changed: the Adria Palace on the Pest side near the Margaret Bridge, built between 1914 and 1918 as the headquarters of an Italian insurance company.
General Thoughts: The room was wonderful with a stunning view of the plaza over Deák Square. I would say service could use some polishing and did not meet what I suspect was the Ritz standard when the hotel flew under that banner.
Insider Tip: No Marriott Bonvoy points apply under the new flag.
Al Habtoor Palace
Where We Ate
Café Kör, a few blocks from St. Stephen's Basilica, opens the week. Open since 1995, a vaulted 1930s bistro with Thonet chairs and coral walls, the kind of place where bankers and ministry staff talk shop over goulash and chicken paprikash rather than tourists working through a bucket list. Confirmed for our first dinner in the city for some traditional well executed Hungarian classics. Please note, there is no AC in this venue and so if you run hot, you may want to find an alternative or secure a seat outdoor and hope for a breeze. cafekor.net
Kiosk Budapest takes the second night, after an afternoon Danube boat tour. Set inside a 300-year-old former Piarist school gym, all high ceilings and industrial-chic bones, with a patio that looks straight across the river at the Elisabeth Bridge. The space is very cool and grand though it was set up for the World Cup Finals, which were airing that night. We stuck to the staple Hungarian dishes which were all great. kiosk-budapest.hu
Náncsi Néni, up in the Buda Hills, gets midday duty between a soak at Rudas and whatever the evening brings. A 17th-century farmhouse with red-and-white checked tablecloths and a garden shaded by century-old oak and chestnut trees. This was a great place to just catch up with friends and enjoy the beautiful garden and we would definitely come back. Expect to see all the Hungarian classics on the menu. If it’s summer, do not forget to try the cherry soup followed by the classic paprikás csirke with sour cream, of course. nancsineni.hu
Borkonyha takes one of the week's marquee dinners. It's held a Michelin star since 2014, still does, and the wine list runs over 200 Hungarian labels deep. The foie gras with Tokaji aszú has been on the menu since it opened. The staff is wonderful and has a deep understanding of the chef’s preparations but was also quickly able to accommodate every dish to an egg white allergy and a vegetarian guest. Overall high-quality food, delivered in an aesthetic way, perfect for a romantic dinner or a gathering of friends. borkonyha.hu
Tom George Osteria closes out the city with a farewell dinner on the last night. Reworked in 2009 under Italian chef Sergio Vitti, it runs wood-fired Neapolitan pizza and fresh pasta out of a glass-walled open kitchen, with a terrace close enough to the Basilica that the dome is part of the view. This has been a standard visit for us in Hungary, mostly because it offers wonderful service, convenience of location, and a menu broad enough to support a group of pickier eaters. Insider Tip: Ask to sit outside along the Zrínyi Street terrace so that you can gaze at the Basilica while you dine. tomgeorge.hu
Twice on the schedule: nightcaps at LEO Rooftop, eight floors up at Hotel Clark, right where the Chain Bridge meets Buda. Buda Castle above, the Basilica dome punctuating the Pest skyline in front. Reservations run in two-hour blocks and go fast, so keep that in mind. leobudapest.hu
Sometimes the destination is all about the food.
About 30 minutes outside Budapest sits the charming riverside town of Szentendre. With its quiet cobblestone streets, colorful old town, and peaceful stretch of the Danube, it's the perfect escape from the city's energy.
But if we're being honest, we came for the lángos.
Hidden down one of the narrowest passageways in town is the Lángos stand, serving one of Hungary's most beloved comfort foods. Freshly fried dough, crisp on the outside and soft on the inside, topped with sour cream, cheese, and just the right amount of garlic. They offer plenty of toppings, but for us, the classic combination is impossible to beat. Don't expect a table though. Standing room only is part of the experience.
Once you've finished, dessert is mandatory.
As you step back out of the alley, turn immediately left for an artisanal ice cream shop where the standout flavor is an unforgettable lavender dark chocolate. If you prefer something more traditional, walk just a few more steps to Centrum, a classic gelato shop. Their caramelized fig is a surprise favorite and one we'd happily order again.
Some places are worth the drive. Szentendre is one of them.
No trip to Hungary is complete without trying a kürtőskalács.
These iconic chimney cakes have become a social media sensation, with modern versions overflowing with ice cream, chocolate, and every topping imaginable. They're fun, but sometimes the original is still the best.
Fresh from the oven, lightly crisp on the outside, soft and airy on the inside, and coated in either fragrant cinnamon or sweet vanilla sugar. No filling needed.
A recommendation from friends led us to Café Molnár, right along Budapest's main walking promenade, and it absolutely lived up to the hype. You can certainly go crazy, but we recommend sticking with the simple vanilla or cinnamon. https://kurtoskalacs.com/en/
Some of the best travel finds are the ones you never planned.
We stumbled into Rodolfo Cocktail Bar by pure chance, tucked away like a little rabbit hole straight out of Alice in Wonderland. Step inside and the city disappears. Dark, moody, intimate, and effortlessly cool.
The cocktails were excellent, but what really stood out was the warm, attentive service that made us want to linger just a little longer.
It wasn't on our itinerary, but it will be next time. If you're looking for the perfect place to start your evening, Rodolfo is an easy choice. We'd happily return for a pre-dinner drink before exploring the city all over again. https://rodolfobudapest.hu/en/
We could not taste test all of these but our research combining our own searches in combination with our cousin Ryans recommendations can be found here.
What We Did
Rudas Thermal Bath, booked on an All-In ticket, is the Ottoman original: commissioned in 1571 by Sokollu Mustafa Pasha, governor of Buda, and still centered on the same domed octagonal pool the Turks built it around. For four centuries it was men-only. That changed only in the last generation. The baths still have men-only and women-only days, so be sure to check their websites, and massages can only be booked in person. What we loved about this bath is that it leaned a bit younger in its crowd and was less focused on the guests who come to the thermal baths to recover from a slew of ailments. Insider Tip: Bring your own towels and sandals if you want to avoid renting them. The highlight here is the rooftop bath overlooking the Danube where you can literally spend hours soaking as we did. rudasfurdo.hu
A Red Jet speedboat tour fills an afternoon at speed, cutting past Parliament at 80 km/h from the water instead of a bridge deck. We honestly did not know what to expect from this excursion but it was really amazing. This is not for the faint of heart as you will be holding on for dear life and some of the stunts they pull towards the end of the journey had us closing our eyes and trying to figure out where our bodies were in relation to space and time. Honestly, not many people can say that they literally splashed through the Danube without a care in the world. Insider Tip: You will get absolutely drenched down to your underwear, so bring a bathing suit, sandals and use the available tops and bottoms they provide for the excursion itself. https://www.redjet.hu/
Budapest Must-Sees
Fisherman's Bastion at dawn, before the tour buses arrive. The Hungarian Parliament from the Pest embankment at dusk. The Great Market Hall, 1897 ironwork worth the visit even without buying paprika or lángos. The Dohány Street Synagogue, the largest in Europe. House of Terror, housed in the actual building used by two occupying regimes; budget ninety minutes. Castle Hill and Matthias Church on foot, the neo-Gothic spire under its Zsolnay tile roof anchoring the afternoon.
Croatia: Hvar
Getting There:
Our journey began in Budapest, and getting from there to Split turned into its own small adventure. There are no direct flights between the two cities, so covering the roughly 435 miles (700 kilometers) that separate them meant driving was really the only practical option, to be split by car. What we hadn’t counted on was the cost of a one-way rental: because the car would start in Hungary and end in Croatia, the agencies we called quoted exorbitant repositioning fees, pushing a single day’s rental to well over 1,700 euros. In the end, our concierge came through and found a solution via a third-party agency, Avalon Car Rental Hungary, who arranged both a driver and one of their larger vehicles for the trip. The result was a wonderfully smooth journey of about seven hours from Budapest to Split, broken up by only a short pitstop before crossing into Croatia. As the drive nears its end, the road offers a first peek at the Adriatic, a lovely preview before the final leg of the journey into Hvar.
Where We Stayed:
For our stay on Hvar, we chose Hotel Moeesy,a Blue & Green Oasis, a five-star, adults-only boutique property set right along the seaside promenade, just a short stroll from the old town. The building dates back to 1929 and, after a full renovation, reopened as Moeesy in 2022, surrounded by lush Mediterranean gardens and just steps from the water. The setting alone would have been worth the stay: cascading pools tumble across the terraced grounds with an open view out to the Adriatic, making it hard to tell where the pool ends and the sea begins. But what truly stood out, beyond the beautiful grounds, was the staff, from the reception team to the breakfast crew, everyone made us feel genuinely looked after. Above all was Kristina, the properties fabulous concierge, who was kind, welcoming, and endlessly supportive throughout our stay. Since we had booked this trip last minute, the hotel had only one small room left on the entire property, and while we were still finishing up in Hungary, Kristina worked day by day to track down a better room for us, sparing us from having to move mid-trip. She also lined up excellent restaurant recommendations, arranged a boat trip, and handled reservations for everything we needed. We felt truly at home here and would, without question, come back.
Hotel Moeesy
Where We Ate:
Luviji Rooftop kicked off our first night on the island, a family-run konoba tucked into Hvar’s old town serving traditional Dalmatian dishes and homemade wine from the family’s own vineyard. The terrace overlooks the rooftops of the old town, making for an easy, low-key start to the week. facebook.com/rooftopluviji
Paradise Garden was our second night, a hidden courtyard restaurant folded into the ancient city walls just off Hvar’s main square. Modern Mediterranean plates arrived under string lights in what genuinely felt like its own private garden. The food was excellent with a highlight being the shrimp crude served with a perfectly prepared pasta in the most divine pesto sauce. restaurant-paradise-garden-hvar.com
Mediterraneo Dine & Wine hosted our third dinner, a Hvar institution that has been family-run since 1953 and has since picked up a Michelin Guide recommendation. Tucked into the most picture perfect corner of a Dalmatian piazza, it still feels like it hasn’t changed in decades, making it feel as though you are eating dinner inside the most perfect oil painting. The service was outstanding and some of the best on the island, food was impeccable with the highlights being the foie gras, the langoustine and the most perfectly prepared raspberry and white chocolate dessert that looked almost too good to eat. mediterraneohvar.hr
Štajun is an absolute must. Do not think twice, just go. Dare I say that Paolo added one of their dishes to his “top 25 all time” and it was a pasta! Just steps from the main square on a quiet tucked away side street this place delivers with a refined, seafood-driven Mediterranean menu that easily ranked among the best meals of the entire trip. There are so many wonderful options but the Pljukani with black truffle, cream and parmesan crisps is a must. restaurant-stajunhvar.com
Konoba Maestro is a family run konoba tucked just off the cathedral square in Hvar's Old Town, known for its octopus and the day's fresh catch cooked over an open flame. Its stone walled terrace, shaded by olive trees, creates a peaceful setting where the pace of life seems to slow down. It is quiet, relaxed, and unhurried. The menu is small but thoughtfully curated, with dishes based on the freshest seasonal ingredients available. A standout was the Pašticada Ravioli, featuring traditional Croatian slow cooked beef stuffed into homemade ravioli, a delicious interpretation of one of Dalmatia's most beloved dishes. instagram.com/konoba_maestro
Onyx²⁸ is a rooftop fine dining destination in Hvar Town led by young Croatian chef Mario Mandarić, a Forbes 30 Under 30 honoree who trained at the world renowned The Fat Duck. Inspired by French bistronomy, the restaurant offers a refined tasting menu or a la carte option served on a terrace overlooking the Adriatic, with sweeping views of Hvar's historic fortress. One of the town's newest culinary additions, Onyx²⁸ is the sister restaurant to the acclaimed Mediterraneo Dine & Wine, bringing the same commitment to exceptional ingredients and creative execution in a more elevated setting. The staff was warm and welcoming, service was on point and food was delicious. Highlights included the tuna takaki, and the fresh sea bream. onyx28.hr
Cocktails and Mocktails:
Ka’Lavanda Bar, by far our favorite, is tucked into a perfect alley in Hvar’s old town. A gay couple revamped and renovated this long-standing staple, and the staff is phenomenal. Insider Tip: Reservations can be made through their website, though the booking portal was down when we tried, so a call ahead may help. If you’re lucky, you’ll cross paths with Maya, the glamorous and lovely hostess. kalavanda.com
The Backlane Craft Bar, tucked away in another small alley, is also a perfect place to start the evening. The cocktails are great, and while it has a slightly less glamorous feel compared to Ka’Lavanda, it’s still worth a visit to change things up. backlanehvar.com
Ice Cream Dream: Sweet Republic Hvar was the only ice cream spot on the island we kept going back to. The flavor selection is small and rotates regularly, but if the goat milk caramel is on offer, order it immediately, it’s genuinely to die for. sweethvar.com
What We Did:
Carpe Diem Beach Club, arranged through the hotel concierge, has been the island’s most famous beach day since 1998, tucked onto its own stretch of the Pakleni Islands a short boat ride from Hvar town. Sun loungers spread across the rocks under pine shade, with a restaurant, sushi menu, and an After Beach scene that builds through the afternoon into evening. Insider Tip: Arrive by 1:00 PM as we did, have your concierge make reservations as loungers fill in fast once the boats from town start arriving. The vibe is significantly more calm during the 2pm-4pm hours and then the DJ starts at 4pm. It is a rocky shore like many here in Croatia so bring some sandals. I will say, we were hesitant to try the sushi but it was excellent. cdhvar.com
Private Boat Tour to the Pakleni Islands, arranged directly by the hotel, we opted for a 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM with Segorent Yachts (https://segorentyachts.com/). This activity is definitely a must do! The ride will have you threading between the pine-covered islets just off Hvar town, with stops in quiet coves for swimming and snorkeling away from the crowds that pack the more popular beach clubs. Tip: Book a 10am to 2pm ride and decide which island you would like your journey to end. This company allows for a pickup up and return to your initial embarkation dock. Remember to check with your concierge for local wind patterns so you can ensure that you target the most ideal day for your island hopping.
After our boat tour we opted to get dropped off at the quieter Mlini beach which had more locals and was a place to rest, recover and reboot. The Beach was beautiful and there were a selection of bars and dining options. We took a 10 minute stroll to the other side of the island where we had lunch at Tri Grede (https://tri-grede.eatbu.hr/?lang=hr) where the Chicken salad was phenomenal and the french fries were next level. Insider tip: since there is no formal beach club operation on the Mlini side, you can purchase a sun bed at the bar (20 euro per bed) and it is first come first serve. Bring your own towels, just in case all are taken.
Fortica Fortress Walk is the perfect alternative for a windy day when getting out on the water feels like more trouble than it’s worth. Perched about 100 meters above Hvar’s old town, this hilltop fortress (also called the Spanish Fortress) dates back to 1278 when Hvar came under Venetian rule, with the version standing today largely rebuilt in 1551 after it helped shelter the town during the Ottoman invasion of 1571. You can reach it two ways: straight up the steep stone steps from town, or via the more gradually inclined back roads if you’d rather skip the stairs. Insider Tip: Entry is 12 euros, well worth it for the panoramic views and photo ops over the old town and the Pakleni Islands, and there’s a small bar inside for a quick break and some rehydration. One thing to know: reaching the main entrance isn’t the end of the climb, budget another 15 minutes of walking from there to the actual fortress. Wear sneakers, this is a proper walk, not a stroll. visithvar.hr
Croatia: Split
Getting There:
From Hvar, the journey to Split is about 55 minutes with the high speed ferry service. There are many options, so just find the one that works best for your departure time.
Where We Stayed:
Hotel Park anchors our two nights in Split, a five-star property that has been a fixture of the city’s social scene since it first opened in 1921 as Hotel Imperial, set in the former Villa Dvornik. It sits right next to Bačvice Beach, tucked under Marjan Park and about half a mile from the Diocletian Palace, with a sea-view terrace, outdoor pool, wellness and fitness facilities. Overall the property has a historic feel to it, the staff was welcoming and helpful and we enjoyed our stay. Breakfast was outstanding and had everything you would need. The only downsides to this property are that it could use a bit of updating when it comes to the rooms, some more seating options around the pool, and it was about a solid 20 minute walk into town. hotelparksplit.com
Where We Ate:
Corto Maltese kicked off our first night in Split with an easy outdoor table, outstanding service, and a genuinely fun menu full of clever dish names. The veal tartare was prepared to perfection and the “Bad Ass Sea Bass” lived up to its name — next time we’d go back for the stuffed peppers with meat and mashed potatoes. corto-maltese-freestyle-food.locallya.com
Bokeria Kitchen & Wine came recommended twice over — once from friends and again from our favorite concierge back in Hvar — so it’s next on the list for our second night in Split. Set beside the fish market with bright, glass-walled dining rooms that blur the line between the street and the restaurant (plus a quieter upper floor for those who want it), the kitchen leans contemporary Mediterranean with a menu built for sharing — tacos, bombolini, soparnik — alongside heartier plates for meat and fish lovers alike. We haven’t been yet, but we’ll report back after our July 29 dinner. bokeria.hr
What We Did:
Exploring Old Town & Diocletian’s Palace was the heart of our time in Split. The 1,700-year-old palace isn’t roped off behind glass — it’s a living neighborhood, its Roman walls and vaulted substructure halls now threaded through with cafes, shops, and homes. We wandered the marble-smoothed streets to the Peristyle and the Cathedral of St. Domnius, then let ourselves get pleasantly lost in the surrounding lanes. Afterward we walked the Riva, the palm-lined harbor promenade that runs along the palace’s seaward wall — an easy, unhurried stretch made for people-watching, a coffee, or a scoop of gelato with the water on one side and 1,700 years of history on the other. Insider Tip: Go early morning or after 5pm to avoid the cruise-ship crowds, and duck into the Substructures beneath the palace — one of the best-preserved ancient Roman spaces anywhere.
Mistral Beach Club was our beach day in Split — sunbeds and umbrellas confirmed for the afternoon at this stretch of beach right below the Radisson Blu Resort & Spa. We settled in for a relaxed few hours of sun and swimming, with a Mediterranean and international menu (sushi included) available right at the loungers if hunger struck. It’s known as one of the liveliest beach clubs in the city, with a DJ-driven lounge scene that builds as the afternoon goes on, so it’s the pick if you want a beach day with a bit more energy than a quiet cove. Insider Tip: Book sunbeds ahead in peak summer, as they fill up fast, and arrive earlier in the day if you’d rather have a quieter stretch before the DJ sets ramp up. mistralbeachclub.com
Sweden/Stockholm
Where We Stayed
At Six anchors the city stay, set into the Brunkebergstorg Square redevelopment in Norrmalm. Three hundred forty-three rooms, dark monochrome interiors from London's Universal Design Studio, and a museum-grade art collection running through the public spaces. Overall the hotel is well located, is more modern and minimal in design. Our only complaints were the room temperature which cannot be adjusted to cool significantly as it functions more as a ventilation system. atsix.com
The last night belongs to the Clarion Hotel at Arlanda Airport, chosen on purpose. An early flight home doesn't need a scenic hotel. It needs one connected to the terminal. choicehotels.com
Where We Ate
Pelago claimed one of our favorite evenings in Stockholm, a rooftop perched at Katarinahuset in Slussen with sweeping views across the entire city. Go right at sunset, or as close to it as you can get — the light over the water is worth the wait. The seafood did not disappoint, and the tuna was a standout, but the real highlight was a dessert that’s currently having its moment on social media: soft-serve ice cream topped with caviar, served alongside a side of fries made for dipping straight through both. pelagosthlm.se
Fjäderholmarnas Krog & Magasin was our lunch spot on Stockholm’s closest archipelago island, about a 25-minute ferry ride from the city with boats leaving roughly every 30 minutes — it’s a beautiful ride on a beautiful day. Insider Tip: book a reservation for around 1:30 or 2pm, and get to the island early so you have time to wander before you eat. There are darling glassblowing and ceramics shops worth a look, and if the weather cooperates, bring a swimsuit and a towel, because you can jump right into the water. The seafood salads were divine, the outdoor seating was lovely in the sun, and the restaurant’s interior held its own on a beautiful day too. fjaderholmarnaskrog.se
Ett Hem delivered our highlight dinner in Stockholm, the restaurant inside this luxurious, world-renowned boutique hotel in Östermalm. It’s built to make you feel like you’re seated at your coolest friend’s townhouse, dining around an open kitchen. The food is Michelin-quality without any of the stuffiness, the atmosphere is amazing, and the service is stellar — a meal and an experience we’ll always remember. One day, maybe we’ll even spend a night or two at the hotel itself. etthem.se
Prinsen brought us back for our final night in Stockholm, a classic establishment we first visited two years earlier and knew we had to return to. Open since 1897, it’s a must-visit for the meatballs, potato puree, cucumber salad, and berries — just don’t forget to start with the Toast Skagen. restaurangprinsen.se
What We Did
Stockholm was really about a few unhurried days with friends, and it was wonderful to just let the itinerary unfold without any real planning. If you happen to be visiting during the last week of July, you may catch Stockholm Pride, with the parade and festivities taking over the city. Otherwise, we spent our time browsing some of our favorite Swedish brands, including Byredo, Filippa K, Arket, and Acne Studios (and of course the archives), and simply walking around in the sunshine. We also stopped for a drink on the patio at Lydmar Hotel. And no trip to Sweden is complete without stocking up on candy before you leave, easy enough to do at grocery stores like Coop.
